| Hwangak-san 황악산 |
| Still Under Construction |
Jikji-sa [Finger-Pointing Monastery] at the base of Mt. Hwangak-san is one of the Top-20 Temples of South
Korea, and one of the oldest existing temples in all of Korea. It is believed to have been originally established in
418 during the reign of King Nulchi (r. 417-458) by Master Ado, a legendary missionary from the Goguryeo Kingdom
who is sometimes credited with being the first to introduce Buddhism to the Shamanist Shilla Kingdom (which formally
accepted Buddhism in 527, and definite records of any temples or other Buddhist activity before that do not exist).
Originally it was probably quite small, but Jikji-sa was rebuilt much larger, to about 40 buildings, by Master Jajang-yulsa
in 645 during the reign of Queen Seondeok (r. 632-647).
After almost total destruction during the Hideyoshi Invasion, only 20 buildings were rebuilt in 1602. Destruction and
reconstruction succeeded each other with major renovations in the 10th century and again from 1966 to 1981.
The name of the temple is very unusual, "Direct Pointing Temple." There are three theories concerning the origin. Master
Ado is reputed to have pointed to Mt. Hwangak-san and said, "There is a good place for a great temple to be built."
Elsewhere it is recorded that Master Nungyo of the late Koryo Dynasty measured the site with his hand instead of a ruler.
Finally, the name reflects the core of Korean Buddhism, the teaching that describes Zen as "direct pointing to the human
heart, not relying on words and letters."
The most famous monk associated with this temple is Master Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610). Born in 1544, he was
orphaned at an early age and ordained at Jikjisa Temple at the age of sixteen. He then studied under Master Sosan
(1520-1604) in the Diamond Mountains and both of them led an army of some 5,000 trained soldier-monks to fight off
the Japanese invaders of the sixteenth century. At the beginning of the invasion, King Sonjo (1567-1608) fled the capital,
leaving a poorly-trained, weak army to defend the country. In desperation he called Master Sosan who was 73 years of
age who, iIn spite of his advanced age, managed to recruit an army of 5,000 monk-soldiers. Master Samyong, one of
Sosan's main disciples, was put in charge of the main part of the operation. After the invaders were routed, Master
Samyong was sent as an envoy to the Japanese court in 1604 and, after completing a peace treaty, he returned home
with 3,000 prisoners. Due to his merit the temple was restored. Master Samyong died in 1610 at Haein-sa and there is a
memorial shrine to him at Jikjisa Temple.
After the One-pillar Gate there is the huge Four Guardians' Gate. On entering the compound you can see two,
three-storey pagodas which date from the Unified Shilla Period; one in front of the Main Hall (Treasure No. 606) and one
in front of the 1,000 Buddhas Hall (Treasure No. 607). In the Main Hall, a building representative of Choson architecture,
there are the Three Jewels, a name for the triad of Sakyamuni, Amitabha and the Medicine Buddha. The painting behind
the statues is Treasure No. 608. To the west there is a second big monastery compound which contains monks' living
quarters, the head monk's house, the meditation hall and various other buildings. There are other shrines as well.
Attached to the Avalokitesvara Hall is a memorial shrine for Master Samyong. Inside the 1,000 Buddhas Hall there are
small white Buddhas made of Kyongju jade dating from the Choson Period; the main statues date from 1852. They form
a triad of Vairocana, the Medicine Buddha and Sakyamuni. Among the little statues there is one of a naked baby and it
is believed that if you see it first, then you will have a son. The pictures of the guardians date from 1886.
To the right is the Judgement Hall in which the Ten Judges are set in two rows of five. Each judge is accompanied by
three servants and two guardians ward off evil by the door. There is a Disciples' Hall which contains some lovely images
of the Buddha's enlightened followers. The most valuable object in Jikjisa is a statue of the Medicine Buddha, Treasure
No. 319. It dates from the Unified Shilla Period and, guessing from the form of the statue, scholars place it at the end of
the 9th century. It is 1.61 meters high and both statue and halo are made of granite. The right hand is on the right knee
and the fingers are in a position known as "making evil surrender." In the left hand there is a vessel for medicine.
Jikjisa also has a famous bell. It is 1.44 meters high and the diameter of the mouth of the bell is 1.13 meters. According
to the inscription on the bell it was cast in 1713. On the upper part of the bell the mantras for breaking the hells and "Om
Mani Padme Hum" are inscribed. The top and the decorative strip are characteristic of Chinese bells and commonly
found on Choson bells. Only just over three hours from Seoul, Jikjisa Temple is a wonderful day's outing.
Korea, and one of the oldest existing temples in all of Korea. It is believed to have been originally established in
418 during the reign of King Nulchi (r. 417-458) by Master Ado, a legendary missionary from the Goguryeo Kingdom
who is sometimes credited with being the first to introduce Buddhism to the Shamanist Shilla Kingdom (which formally
accepted Buddhism in 527, and definite records of any temples or other Buddhist activity before that do not exist).
Originally it was probably quite small, but Jikji-sa was rebuilt much larger, to about 40 buildings, by Master Jajang-yulsa
in 645 during the reign of Queen Seondeok (r. 632-647).
After almost total destruction during the Hideyoshi Invasion, only 20 buildings were rebuilt in 1602. Destruction and
reconstruction succeeded each other with major renovations in the 10th century and again from 1966 to 1981.
The name of the temple is very unusual, "Direct Pointing Temple." There are three theories concerning the origin. Master
Ado is reputed to have pointed to Mt. Hwangak-san and said, "There is a good place for a great temple to be built."
Elsewhere it is recorded that Master Nungyo of the late Koryo Dynasty measured the site with his hand instead of a ruler.
Finally, the name reflects the core of Korean Buddhism, the teaching that describes Zen as "direct pointing to the human
heart, not relying on words and letters."
The most famous monk associated with this temple is Master Samyeong-daesa (1544-1610). Born in 1544, he was
orphaned at an early age and ordained at Jikjisa Temple at the age of sixteen. He then studied under Master Sosan
(1520-1604) in the Diamond Mountains and both of them led an army of some 5,000 trained soldier-monks to fight off
the Japanese invaders of the sixteenth century. At the beginning of the invasion, King Sonjo (1567-1608) fled the capital,
leaving a poorly-trained, weak army to defend the country. In desperation he called Master Sosan who was 73 years of
age who, iIn spite of his advanced age, managed to recruit an army of 5,000 monk-soldiers. Master Samyong, one of
Sosan's main disciples, was put in charge of the main part of the operation. After the invaders were routed, Master
Samyong was sent as an envoy to the Japanese court in 1604 and, after completing a peace treaty, he returned home
with 3,000 prisoners. Due to his merit the temple was restored. Master Samyong died in 1610 at Haein-sa and there is a
memorial shrine to him at Jikjisa Temple.
After the One-pillar Gate there is the huge Four Guardians' Gate. On entering the compound you can see two,
three-storey pagodas which date from the Unified Shilla Period; one in front of the Main Hall (Treasure No. 606) and one
in front of the 1,000 Buddhas Hall (Treasure No. 607). In the Main Hall, a building representative of Choson architecture,
there are the Three Jewels, a name for the triad of Sakyamuni, Amitabha and the Medicine Buddha. The painting behind
the statues is Treasure No. 608. To the west there is a second big monastery compound which contains monks' living
quarters, the head monk's house, the meditation hall and various other buildings. There are other shrines as well.
Attached to the Avalokitesvara Hall is a memorial shrine for Master Samyong. Inside the 1,000 Buddhas Hall there are
small white Buddhas made of Kyongju jade dating from the Choson Period; the main statues date from 1852. They form
a triad of Vairocana, the Medicine Buddha and Sakyamuni. Among the little statues there is one of a naked baby and it
is believed that if you see it first, then you will have a son. The pictures of the guardians date from 1886.
To the right is the Judgement Hall in which the Ten Judges are set in two rows of five. Each judge is accompanied by
three servants and two guardians ward off evil by the door. There is a Disciples' Hall which contains some lovely images
of the Buddha's enlightened followers. The most valuable object in Jikjisa is a statue of the Medicine Buddha, Treasure
No. 319. It dates from the Unified Shilla Period and, guessing from the form of the statue, scholars place it at the end of
the 9th century. It is 1.61 meters high and both statue and halo are made of granite. The right hand is on the right knee
and the fingers are in a position known as "making evil surrender." In the left hand there is a vessel for medicine.
Jikjisa also has a famous bell. It is 1.44 meters high and the diameter of the mouth of the bell is 1.13 meters. According
to the inscription on the bell it was cast in 1713. On the upper part of the bell the mantras for breaking the hells and "Om
Mani Padme Hum" are inscribed. The top and the decorative strip are characteristic of Chinese bells and commonly
found on Choson bells. Only just over three hours from Seoul, Jikjisa Temple is a wonderful day's outing.
Hwang-ak-san [Yellow-Crags Mountain] stands 1111 meters tall on the west side of Gimcheon
City, which forms the southwest corner of North Gyeongsang Province (Gyeongsang-bukdo). It
is a significant member of the Baekdu-daegan Ridge-line. It hosts the very important Buddhist
monastery Jikji-sa and several related hermitages; in modern times it has become famous for
its splendid scenery and as an excellent tourist destination, with many motels at its feet and
restaurants that serve wonderful courses of Sanchae-jeongshik [wild-mountain-vegetables meal].
City, which forms the southwest corner of North Gyeongsang Province (Gyeongsang-bukdo). It
is a significant member of the Baekdu-daegan Ridge-line. It hosts the very important Buddhist
monastery Jikji-sa and several related hermitages; in modern times it has become famous for
its splendid scenery and as an excellent tourist destination, with many motels at its feet and
restaurants that serve wonderful courses of Sanchae-jeongshik [wild-mountain-vegetables meal].
| Hwangak-san Jikji-sa |
| Main Hall and Twin Pagodas in the Central Courtyard |
| Pre-dawn Chanting-Ceremony in the Main Hall |
View at dawn from the Main Hall doorway
| View down to Jikji-sa's valley (left) from Hwangak's summit on the Baekdu-daegan trail, taken by Roger & Andrew of the 2007 Baekdu-daegan Expedition Team |
| Hermitages of Jikji-sa on Hwangak-san: Hwajang-am Samseong-am Cheonbul-am |